I have four favorite cities in the United States. In fact, there are only about four cities that I like at all. They are: San Francisco, Chicago, Denver, and Kansas City. (I'd add a fifth, but I can't choose between Seattle and Boston.) You can keep the rest.
I've been entranced by the City by the Bay since my first visit in 1978. "I'm always drunk in San Francisco," goes the old song, "and I don't drink at all." Something about the place definitely puts you in a different frame of mind--something to do with the air, perhaps, which you can feel and taste, and the majestic setting at the mouth of one of the world's most beautiful natural harbors.
You can still feel the gold rush, and see the old money of Nob Hill. You think of the loneshoremen, Dashiell Hammett, City Lights bookstore, the "Wall Street of the West," and St. Francis Church, where Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe got married. Willie Mays played here, and Joe Montana, along with various beats, hippies, investment bankers, and weird characters.
The city was named for St. Francis of Assisi, its patron saint. Most people don't think of San Francisco as a particularly "spiritual" place, though I do. If I lived there, I'd be hard-pressed to decide which church to go to. Denominational ties would link me to St. Mark's Lutheran, which is fine, but I'd spend some time at Glide Memorial United Methodist and maybe do some volunteer work there. I'd drop in at St. Gregory of Nyssa Episcopal occasionally, and also Grace Cathedral. I like the modernist architecture of St. Mary's Cathedral so I might go there once in awhile as well. If I needed some space to think, I might head up to the pacifying spaces of the Pacific School of Religion, which overlooks the ocean.
"Don't call it Frisco," said Herb Caen, because "Frisco" just isn't dignified enough for such a cosmopolitan place. San Francisco proclaimed itself "sophisticated" from the beginning. Which, oddly, it is. Usually, when people proclaim some virtue for themselves, that very proclamation is evidence that they don't have that particular virtue, nor humility either.
Yet, for all that sophistication, the city also has its brawling past, its out-size cranks, and its shady characters. Until rather recently, San Francisco was mainly a blue collar city. Eric Hoffer, the working man's philosopher, was a San Franciscan.
San Francisco was originally a Spanish mission, and our first important connection with Asia--thus, an international city from the beginning. Combine Asian and Latino cultures with western independence. Throw in financiers, longshoremen, and Jack Kerouac. Put them all in a place that moves between sun-kissed exuberance and foggy moodiness and you have a mix that is both thoroughly American and, for America, unusually exotic.